I really feel like Bruno is actually saying that the navigation should match the implementation and that ill-fitting navigation kills user experience.

The "list" icon (a.k.a. hamburger) is a perfectly appropriate way to indicate a list of options lay within but more often than not it's how a designer has to deal with the fact that a client does not want to restructure their content.

I had a conversation with someone just the other day who's client wanted to make their triple layered fly out menu work on mobile. After a lot of consternation she asked me how I would go about it... Like any experienced designer I said I wouldn't; shouldn't be done even if you could; it's time to revisit the navigation and build a site that does what it's supposed to...

The title doesn't back the thesis here but what it should read is, "User Testing: Or how overburdened navigation kills conversions."